1 Preparing The Mold
- Choose an appropriate mold rubber based on your needs. Place your models
on the uncured rubber disc, using a pair of dividers to ensure a symmetrical
mold. Insert a center plug into the middle of the rubber disc and arrange locknuts
to ensure proper alignment of the two mold halves. Place the rubber disc in a
ring frame and dust with mica powder before adding the second mold half.
2 Vulcanizing The Mold
- Preheat your vulcanizer and mold frame to the correct temperature before
inserting the mold. Place the mold frame into the vulcanizer and slowly increase
the pressure on the mold using the jack to raise the lower platen. As the pressure
increases and the heat is transferred from the vulcanizer platens to the mold,
the rubber flows around your models, filling every void and capturing every detail.
3 Gating and Venting
- Once the rubber mold has been vulcanized, removing your models is as easy
as removing the mold frame set from the vulcanizer and flexing the rubber mold.
are now cut into the rubber mold to direct the molten metal into the model cavities
during casting. In addition, vents are cut into the mold to prevent the buildup
of gasses. The gates and vents are easily cut using a sharp knife and are specifically
shaped to take advantage of the spin casting process.
4 Spin Casting
all of the gates and vents cut, the mold is placed into the spincasting machine.
Adjustments are made for table spin speed, cycle duration, and clamping pressure
and the cycle is starting by simply closing the lid of the spin casting machine.
Molten metal is then poured into the funnel at the top of the machine. The centrifugal
force created by the spinning of the casting table forces the molten metal into
all of the cavities within the mold. The result is a perfectly cast part which
retains all of the detail of the original model, right down to the surface texture.
If done properly, the cast parts can be snapped off at the gates without the
use of tools and should require little or no finishing.